This week, there was very no motivation to write a manuscript. The manuscript written for LESS was prepared earlier. Musha and hypnosis were also prepared for a month. The social news that I brush every day is really disgusting. Sometimes I think about it. I am hiding in art and fashion. Is it a lot easier?
No, this is a cover-up.
Just look at the beauty and trend of the fashion surface, naturally superficial, but to see the development of fashion history, it is not to express the global women's struggle for equal social rights, of course, in the process, many excellent and kind men's contributions Great power.
We don't have to look back on the future that is too long.
Since the 1950s, relatively wealthy Europe has allowed women of different classes to wear skirts with wide skirts, from layered petticoats, to later to use skirts to prop up a skirt like a lampshade. .
1860
Exposed legs are not allowed, so women often wear a pair of trousers under the large skirt.
It is extremely cumbersome.
Monet’s 1886 paintings show the big skirts of the time.
Although the big skirt is inconvenient, it is not the biggest torture for women. The real horror is the corset. In Europe, the history of corsets has been long since the early 16th century.
In the 1870s, corsets became popular again. The thin, deformed waist and the high-rise skirt of the buttocks are funny and lacking in beauty.
Photos around the 1880s
The aristocratic women at that time, no matter how rich and how sociable, could not avoid the pain of the waist. Princess Daisy, who was considered to be the most beautiful woman in England at the time, was equally thin and deformed.
Photographed in 1901
In the early 20th century, someone who used the early X-rays to shoot a thin waist.
1908
Hasn't anyone ever fought?
Have.
The most famous should be Ms. Amelia Bloomer, who is an advocate of the American feminist movement. She hopes to bring more loose clothes and trousers like bloomers to European women, so that women can carry out various activities.
Clothing promoted by Amelia Bloomer
However, the power of Europe does not respond to such a call, and the cumbersome and tight clothing is still confining the life of women.
About 50 years later, the rising female minds, more and more eager to enter the society like men, began to wear pants and ride bicycles.
Although they are still thin, but once the steps are taken, they will not be able to return.
At the end of the 19th century, the first pin up girl, Fernande Barrey, appeared in a rich, sexy dress and appeared on the poster.
Photography Jean Agelou, 1910
From the perspective of social development, this matter is complicated and contradictory. On the one hand, she is very subversive, and such public appearance is a manifestation of the improvement of women's social status; on the other hand, their photos are mainly sexy. Used to satisfy some people's sexual fantasies for entertainment.
It is said that many of her nude photos were collected by both soldiers during World War I.
Photography Jean Agelou
Think about it, do they still exist today?
Before the advent of the 20th century, women's fashion was a history of imprisonment, but men's dresses are not much different from today's dresses. This irony is better understood only by putting the two together for comparison.
1887
Born in 1879, the Frenchman Paul Poiret kicked off modern fashion, and his most subversive contribution was the liberation of women from the corset.
Paul Pole and the model
Without a corset, from the structure, the woman's breasts need to be lifted, so Paul Borley also invented the bra.
You must have thought that the bra he designed more than 100 years ago is so cute.
1915 works
Ancient Greek, Roman costumes and oriental costumes gave him unlimited inspiration. The characteristics of these periods and regions were biased in the profile, which is in line with the needs of women who are increasingly eager to participate in more social activities.
1913 works
1912 works
At the same time, the East he was inspired by was undergoing major changes - the establishment of the Republic of China in 1912. Mr. Sun Yat-sen, who was sworn in as the interim president in Nanjing, ordered the ban on footbinding.
The horror of the foot-binding appeared in the Song Dynasty, the abnormal aesthetic and sexuality, the long-term stay at home for women, and so on. The woman’s feet were shackled with cloth. The cruelty of the "three-inch golden lotus" is now unimaginable for young people. of.
Foot-binding women in the late 19th century
The Qing dynasty was banned, but it was not too compulsory. In 1883, Kang Youwei did not have a foot-binding meeting. Many progressive people supported the lack of foot-binding. After that, Liang Qichao and Li Dazhao vigorously promoted the lack of foot-binding. This kind of millennial abuse is completely banned, basically after the founding of the country.
Malformation warning
Photography: Jo Farrell
When women in the Republic of China liberated their feet, European fashion began to become more and more abundant, especially the appearance of a female designer, once again bringing more complete freedom to women's dress.
She is coco Chanel.
Coco Chanel applied the elements of men's clothing to women's clothing, breaking the boundaries between the upper class and the general public. The more sporty, casual and elegant clothing was created by her, and at the same time drove the trend of Paris, affecting fashion. The history of history.
Coco Chanel of the 1920s
The entire 1920s was a time when fashion was very big, and women in Europe basically got rid of old fashion and embraced the new era.
Of course, in addition to coco Chanel, there are many talented designers who have launched a large number of clothing suitable for modern life.
20's fashion
It is a pity that the development of the world has never been balanced. Some people cheer for the new era, and some people applaud the old times.
In 1925, the Catholic Diocese of Naples sternly condemned the skirts, and they were angry at the length of the skirt over the knees. Utah in the United States is even more ridiculous, and is still hoping that legislation will forbid women to wear skirts that are 3 inches higher than their ankles.
The woman's desire for free dressing is like the water that breaks the dyke, and it is so violent that nothing can stop it.
Also in 1925, tennis player Eileen Vivian Bennett wore a short skirt above the knee when playing Wimbledon, and did not wear stockings, so that the legs were completely exposed, and soon followed by other female athletes.
Photographed in 1934
Before the miniskirts became popular, women experienced the same trend as boys in the 1920s and more feminine elegance in the 1930s.
Europe and the East in the 1930s were not peaceful. Hitler believes that women belong to the kitchen, should not smoke, should not make up, this is the dictatorship of women in the patriarchal society, whichever is the same. Living in today's society, I want to restore this kind of thought, straight male cancer, think about it, why is it like Hitler?
The most famous designer of the 1930s was Elsa Schiaparelli, an imaginative designer who brought surrealism into fashion design and gave women more fun and art.
1937
Today, no matter how people learn from her designs, they can't bring that kind of shock.
The two most important designers in the fashion industry in the 1940s should be Dior and Balenciage. When Dior launched its first collection called the New Look in 1947, the elegant A-shaped skirt conquered Paris. At the same time, Balenciaga is facing a dilemma, but his talent and friends' funding has allowed him to re-establish himself in the fashion world, and it has given women a more unique choice - a chic silhouette.
Dior's petticoat and corset in 1947
Balenciaga, 1951
The 1950s continued the classical and elegant of the 1940s. At the same time, this era was considered the end of the golden age of fashion design, because the diversified 60s are coming.
In fact, today's review will not think how bad the classics are at the end of the 1960s. When the times go forward, there will always be new looks.
For women, the 1960s is a very attractive and individual age. Material wealth will be eager to get more spiritual, and the "anti-authority" trend is popular. It was during this period that Mary Quant designed the "mini skirt" to become the trend of young people.
Mary Quant, 1967
Of course, it's not just her design of miniskirts. Many of the representative designers at the time designed miniskirts, such as the space-style Pierre Cardin.
1968
Many people attribute the popularity of miniskirts to Mary Quant, but she says it is the choice of street girls themselves.
Yes, the designer and the woman, together, won the right to wear a miniskirt.
In the 1960s, where styles were extremely diverse, there were various trends, hippies, punks, and so on.
60s hippie
There is also a very memorable classic in this decade - the smoking suit of Yves Saint Laurent. The 1967 show was a sensation, the woman put on a men's suit, but the improved structure made the woman's line slender, and then the smoking suit became a burst, becoming one of the best dresses for women to advertise themselves.
1967
Women's dresses in the 1980s were very authoritative. Designers added padded shoulders and masculine suits, sometimes serious and sometimes free and easy. Undoubtedly, in the rich years, women's status has steadily increased, they have more opportunities to compete with men for social jobs, and many designers have given enough respect.
The 1985 edition of the Vogue, costume Betty Hanson
The British version of Vogue in 1987
In fact, several Japanese designers who have emerged in Paris have given women a different sense of power. It does not come from traditional elegance, and the possibilities of fashion are completely subverted.
In 1980, Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake was one of the first Japanese designers to go to Paris to develop. It became famous in the 1970s. We are very familiar with his folds. He also introduced a red plastic bra in 1980, which does not imprison women. It's just a fit and presents a realistic curve.
Here, we can easily find that the same category of design has been inverted. One hundred years ago, the corset represents the control of women in the patriarchal society, and the corset at the moment has become a manifestation of women's strength.
As later, Jean Paul Gaultier became the symbol of feminism like the tapered corset designed by Madonna.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Madonna
The other two designers, Kawakubo and Yamamoto, who became popular in Paris in the 1980s, completely separated women's power from classical beauty and pursued a more destructive and conceptual design.
Comme des Garcons, 1980
From the "Shanchuan School", contemporary fashion design can be said to have entered the new century, and many well-known designers have fallen into this category.
In the past ten years, women's dressing problems are extremely diversified. Freedom to us has no need to discuss what can be worn or not. We only need to know what is appropriate and what is better and more special.
Until some regressive remarks appeared more and more.
I have only made extremely simple explanations since 1850. Until then, the history of women's dressing has not been slack. For so many years, so many people's efforts have won the right to dress free for women.
We can choose sexy hot, lively and lively, elegant and feminine, neutral and handsome, cute and cute, as long as it is decent, this is the freedom of women and men.
No matter how beautiful or ugly, no matter the style, it is not an excuse for the wicked to take off his clothes.
The wicked are naturally subject to legal and moral condemnation. However, the ugliness outside the law is more due to the numbness of some people's values. Dressing and makeup are only used as a magic weapon to attract the opposite sex. There are also people who teach women more clothes to please men, but completely forget to wear them. Clothing can express yourself. Women’s self-awareness is once again suppressed under patriarchy.
Terrible, hateful, and sad.
The more gas is written in the middle of the night, then you should be on the plane when you see this push, and you can't send a message in time.
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